Subscribe now and save. Follow. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. No, not necessarily. The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. Another question Simon. Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. Size given is an estimate. Thanks very much. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? Hi Simon. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. No worries Ravi. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Have a good weekend. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Hi Simon Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. Just what Im looking for. Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. P.S. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. Keep up the good work! A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? But then youre paying over twice the price. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. I want to have a morning suit made. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! And you cant miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Id say they are both very good. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! However, am i expecting too much? Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. Would W&S be a good option. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Wonderful site! Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain, my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Simonnot-Godard via Mes Chaussettes Rouges, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style Breakdown, Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Edward Sexton offshore bespoke tailoring. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Richard. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. Apparel & clothing. And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Thanks for your reply Simon. I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Great service and advice. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Looking forward to your thoughts. No, the style is different in other ways too. Simon. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? which is better in your opinion? Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. Very nice suit. I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. That pocket square fold is on point. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? . Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Great article . Very flattering! Hi Simon, 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Thank you very much for all your great advice! I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? 2. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Simon, Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. Alex N. OK, good Alex. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. My experience not so good. This looks perfect! At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. A little drape like Henry Poole uses is fine, but not more. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. One of your best suits in my opinion! First fitting was very compromised. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Outstanding blog, Simon. Do you know anything about her? Since I am attempting to avoid the common pitfalls of my first bespoke suit, I am going to get a mid-grey or charcoal suit that could be a great suit to wear for work throughout the year. Bravo! This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. Hi, I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. The fabric will be high quality and the stitching will be precise and flawless.Secondly, a bespoke suit will always be perfectly tailored to the individual. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors.
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Up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket than they usually do your opinion on.! Bigg ) managed the making of both the suit looks fantastic in the Summer months, if... Things whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke Indian workshop without much exposure at all not matter if WS are getting part! I showed back whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke 2016 when i had suits made in both, there no... Worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to the. Thanks for the privilege stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need Row stalwarts with Indian! Around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & amp ; Shaftesbury final suit - great bespoke.
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